Tamilians In Burma

Though the Tamil/Indian population in Burma (today’s Myanmar) is hardly anything compared to what it was during the rule of the British in the 19th century. Indians then, were quite the backbone of the civil administration ‘n were influential in Burmese society. The Chettiar community from Tamil Nadu had established themselves as prominent businessmen ‘n powerful moneylenders in Burma during the earlier days of the British raj. Over the years, the native Burmese developed quite a hostile attitude towards Indians in general. It was during the civil unrest of the 60’s in Burma that many Indians were forced to leave the country. Many of the Tamil populace came back to Chennai ‘n settled in ‘n around the north of Chennai. Burma Bazaar consisted of traders who’d come from Burma. And typically became known for a grey market for electronics. Not everyone was a trader ‘n some of the Tamilians also brought back interesting street food from Burma ‘n set shop here.


Atho - Chennai Street Food

Atho – Chennai Street Food


Atho – An Interesting Street Food Story 

Kauk Swe Thoke’s a popular street food dish in Burma. Roundish-thick noodles tossed with cabbage, gravy, fried onion ‘n an assortment of condiments. So the Tamilians from Burma set up their street food stalls near the Burma Bazaar. I was directed to Broadway by my friend Thiagarajan Kumararaja, a Tamil film director whose directed the award winning Tamil film Aaranya Kaandam. He told me about this street there where one can find Burmese style noodles. Aha! That little spark was enough for me. Burmese style noodles in Chennai. I ain’t gonna miss that for nuthin’ in this world.


I’d never gone to North Chennai before. And it took me a good hour and a half before I figured that the Burmese style noodles called ‘Atho’ is available on a street by the name 2nd Line Beach road. That’s parallel to Rajaji Salai. Found a vendor right at the entrance. Expectations were sky-high. Finally I thought I could tell off all our dear ‘Food Connoisseurs’ who pride themselves in comparing notes on where to find the best Khau swe in which Five Star hotel. The first bite of the noodle salad. And Alas! I didn’t know where to spit. The stuff looked really appetizing, but the guys were putting just too much cabbage alongwith the noodles. Kya yaar! I was so disappointed. Politely paid the bill ‘n moved on.  There were quite a few of these stalls. And each of ‘em had 5-10 guys in front tucking into the noodles. I thought to myself. There’s gotta to be more to this. So I took help from a local person. And asked him in my deeply-fractured Tamil “Anna. Ingay best Burmese noodle where to find?? :) The guy took pity on me ‘n pointed me to a noodle stall that wasn’t in this lane. But just off the parallel Rajaji Salai. ‘Avalada best taste’ is what he told me. Hopes were a little higher now ‘n I trudged on. I found this stall, which was a little away from the rest of the stalls. And I think there was a clear reason, why so.


Atho - Burmese street food in Chennai

Atho – Burmese street food in Chennai



Burmese Egg Masala at the Atho Stall


Burmese Egg Masala at the Atho Stall

Burmese Egg Masala at the Atho Stall


So the guy’s name’s Abdul Aziz. His noodles weren’t bad. But far better that the rest of the lot. But still didn’t justify the hype. I thought a little bit of shrimp paste would do wonders to dish. But this was street food in India. The dynamics of food on the street work differently here. So I decided to also try the eggs that he was offering. The way the boiled eggs were stacked on top on another. And fried onion stuffed in from the top. It looked interesting. Aziz bhai put an egg into a soup bowl. Cut it up. Added some flavoured oil. Salt water. Tamarind extract. And a bit of pounded red chilly. He then filled the bowl with a stew. Tasting the stew, I thought it to be mutton or chicken. But couldn’t correctly place the flavour. Abdul Aziz then told me that this was completely vegetarian. Made from banana stem. I thought woah! That took me completely by surprise.


So the soup had ginger, pepper, coconut ‘n flavoured with banana stem. The result was quite outstanding. I’ve never had anything like this on the street. The noodles didn’t impress that much. But the egg stew was exceptional. Very very impressive! I came to the realisation that Atho, I guess grows on you. The locals of North Chennai love it. And queue up to eat this. For me, the egg stew was the unique ‘n inspiring. I’m still waiting for the Atho to grow on me.


Details Of Abdul Aziz’s Atho Stall

Address – The stall’s located in a lane in between Rajaji Salai ‘n 2nd Line Beach road. Next to SBI ATM ‘n opposite to Dass Camera Centre. The stall isn’t like 100% spic ‘n spac but not too bad either.

Timing – 430 pm to 11 pm everyday.

Pricing – The Atho’s priced at Rs. 40. And the egg stew at Rs.35.

Phone number - (+91) 9884386064

Location On Google Maps 

View Atho stall by Abdul Aziz in a larger map


About Chowder Singh’s Chennai local food guide

This guide has references to Chowder Singh’s favourite street ‘n local food in Chennai ‘n offbeat eating places. Along with original photos ‘n location on Google maps. Kindly note that Chowder Singh pays for all his meals. There are no listings against freebies or payment. And absolutely no going around looking for free jigarthanda. If you’ve had Atho or other interesting street food in Chennai. Please do share your experiences. Either in the comments section below. Or in the Chowder Singh facebook group.

Here’s the link

Also, please remember that the pricing of dishes that I’ve mentioned, are when I’ve visited. They might change over a period of time. I’ve still included these as a general guideline. And, please do remember that I write mostly about street food. I try ‘n write only about those places, which not only serve good food, but seem to maintain good hygiene practices. I suggest, for safety’s sake, it’s always better to eat at a street food place which’s busy. Also, neat ‘n clean. If they’re making an effort to keep the place clean, you can be reasonably sure that they’re also making an effort to serve hygienic food. But I’d say always go by your own instinct. And if you’re not sure, but still like to try, then have only the cooked stuff that’s still warm. Safer that way.

Happy hunting food Atho ‘n other interesting street food in Chennai ‘n chow-chow!

Join the Conversation


Leave a Comment

  1. vinod nair says:

    Dear CS,
    An Interesting find, I remember when I was in Madras in the early 80’s for my surgical training, i was staying at the YMCA opp. the High Court near Burma Bazar, I used to go to the bazar to look at the grey stuff, but never knew about this street food.
    God Bless

  2. Really a Good Food to Eat !

  3. The Shop owner is Gajendran ( Shown in Video Youtube Video )

  4. I had a really good time reading this article..Thanks for sharing this wonderful post, It is awesome.

  5. Dhinesh Kumar says:

    Actually i had wonderful atho while going to thalankuppum pier from thiruvrttiyor two years back..thats of a wonderful taste..

  6. Atho at Abdul Aziz shop is very tasty and famous than any other shop in the locality. Myself and my friends eat atho every week in this shop only. We eat countless egg masala there and sip the plantain stem soup with atho. Very nice to share.

  7. muhamed yusuf says:

    I Love Atho a Lot bcoz it’s very tasty nd little bit spicy. The soup also too good nd little healthy fa our body bcoz of the plantain path…

  8. If you want Authentic kousa or autho you need to visit Thanjavur Burma Colony. Check for ‘AKKA KADAI’ you will get the tastiest kousa ever. There is another shop near by where the server the same thing, but that will be crowded all the time.


  9. Ajit Diaz says:

    I am a hard core Burmese Street foodie. Have been eating that stuff for over 30years. In the early years there was a genuine Burmese gentleman who used to see this stuff near GPO. He was neat and the cart was clean and tidy. the way he handled food was a class apart. I think he is now no more and a slew of shops have sprung up. Some are close to the authentic some very far away but, one common factor is that hygiene is questionable. If you can try to ignore that and pray that you won’t fall ill, its worth the risk. Abdul Aziz is good since he has stuck to his recipe and also there is one more guy in the corner of 2nd line beach and Erabalu chetty street (close to abdul aziz)opp to Catholic syrian bank. The only hassle is that you will have to eat elbow to elbow with all kinds from the local coolie to auto rick driver to officers for banks near by.

    If you wish to go to a more amiable place with family you can try Maa tint tin, 28, College Lane, Anderson Road, Near British Commission, Nungambakkam, Chennai 600034.
    Check the review on zomato –

    I think they are pretty close, much more hygenic surroundings but i still feel that the authentic street food taste is missing.

    Try their Mohenga, Khowsuey, Ahtho and lots of other combos. They serve veg and non-veg.

    There is something in this food .. the right combination of condiments (that we use regularly in Indian cooking) yet turns up the taste buds to to year for more. The gravy with coconut base and banana stem, the fried onions, the oil with fried garlic, the crunch beja that is crushed and strewn about in the soupy bowl of yummy slimy noodles. The final touch of corriander and chopped boiled eggs. Hmmmmm……. it is addictive!

  10. IthuEngaArea says:

    Nice blog thanks for sharing wonderful article obviously street food are have more taste than top restaurant and very cheap too.

  11. Nandhini says:

    Atho is very tasty… i Became a fan of Atho :) i loved it.. i ate near this wonderful dish near beach station… they added plantain path… it was very nice to have…:) ..instead of junk foods we cann have a healthy n tasty food like this… :) . I had lik a snack on the evening…:)

  12. DEVARAJ . P says:

    Tamilians In Burma

  13. Madhukesh Loomba says:

    hi, I live in UK but was born in Burma and lived there till 1964. We are doing a trip across Tamil Naidu next February. I was fascinated to read about the Burma colony. I would like to introduce them to some Burmese food, especially Khow swe. Could you recommend a good hygienic restaurant in that area.
    Madhukesh Loomba

    • Chowder Singh says: (Author)

      Madhukesh. No sure if the original Tamil chefs cooking their interpretation of Burmese food is available in a restaurant format. You’ll find chefs cooking Khao Suey in regular 5 star hotel restaurants. You can check for this.

  14. Hmmm yummy yummy no words to say.
    I have been eating this food since childhood it used to be like 3Rs a plate of atho masala egg for 75p